Saturday, May 25, 2013

Kasha, Soviet Army, WWII

     Kasha (каша) is probably most accurately defined as grain porridge. It has often been described, including in some Western intelligence manuals from the Cold War era, as a porridge made from buckwheat groats. While buckwheat is preferred in many areas, kasha is not exclusively made from buckwheat and may be made from most any whole grain, to include millet, rice, semolina, oats or barley. Soviet Army kasha consisted of grain, liquid (water, broth, whole or diluted milk), fat, and sometimes onions. Kasha was classified as fluffy, sticky or slurry, depending on the ratio between the amount of liquid and cereal grains.
          Published in 1947*, the kasha recipes given here are the World War II (Great Patriotic War, if you prefer) version. Soviet Army food was somewhat repetitive and bland by Western standards, with a preponderance of kasha, soup and bread. The diet was based on whole grains, primarily in the form of bread and kasha. These were supplemented by root vegetables and leafy greens (primarily cabbage), with small amounts of meat and fats. Much of the time the vegetables and meats were canned or dehydrated.
     When cooking kasha pay attention to the cooking time needed when making your first batch, as cooking times can vary somewhat due to differences in the grains being used. Once the grain and boiling water have been mixed together, lower the heat to prevent excess moisture loss. Slow cooking over low heat is important to insure that the grain is fully cooked, as incompletely cooked kasha is quite unappetizing. Soviet soldiers had many disparaging terms for half-cooked kasha, such as “bullets”, “bolts” or “shrapnel”. Kasha has completed cooking when all of the liquid has been absorbed and the grains are not dry inside. Sticky kasha should have a texture similar to risotto, without any excess liquid.
     If using broth, beef broth is preferred. Sunflower oil was a commonly available fat, although any type of fat may be used. Tushonka was a popular accompaniment to buckwheat or barley kasha. If adding tushonka, shred the meat into small pieces, add it to the kasha as soon as it is cooked, while still very hot, and mix well.
     The amounts given in the following kasha recipes are for one serving.

*в помошь войсковому повару, составил л.и.артамонов, поднолковник медицинской службы
 (Assistance for the Military Cook, edited by L.I. Artamonov, Lieutenant Colonel, Medical Service)

Three varieties of Soviet Army kasha, served in M36 mess tin lids. From left to right: barley, buckwheat and  oat kasha.  Each mess tin lid contains one portion. The bowls in front of the cooked kasha contain one portion of the uncooked grain. 
Soviet M36 Mess Tins. A close copy of the German M31 Kochgeschirr, it had a capacity of approximately 1.7 liters for the body and 0.5 liters for the lid.
Buckwheat Kasha, Fluffy
Toasting the buckwheat groats before boiling is basic to making good buckwheat kasha. In the US, buckwheat groats are available either raw or toasted. If you are buying raw buckwheat, take care to toast the groats only until they are lightly browned. Over-toasting will result in kasha with a burnt taste. Ten grams of finely chopped onion is approximately one rounded tablespoon in volume.

US                               Metric                         Ingredients
4.25 oz                        120 g                           buckwheat groats
6.5 oz                          180 g                           water
.35 oz (2 tsp)               10 g                             fat
.35 oz (1 tbsp)             10 g                             onion
to taste                        to taste                         salt
yield: 9 oz/250 g

Procedure
Sort through the buckwheat groats and remove any impurities.
Boil the water in a separate pot.
Toast the groats in a dry pot over medium high heat until lightly browned. Stir constantly to avoid burning. After toasting, let the groats cool for a couple of minutes.
Pour the boiling water over the groats while stirring continuously until the groats begin to swell. Then add salt to taste and cook over low heat until it thickens.
As soon as the kasha groats begin to swell, cover the pot tightly, lower the heat, c and simmer over low heat for 20-30 minutes until the buckwheat is well cooked.
While the kasha is cooking, cut the onions into fine pieces and saute in the fat until lightly browned.
Once the  kasha is nearly cooked, add the onion and mix well until it is evenly distributed.
Buckwheat groats, raw (left) and toasted (right).
Barley Kasha, Sticky
Pearled barley is used in this version. Sticky kasha requires a long cooking time which results in a creamier texture.

US                               Metric                        Ingredients
3 oz                             80 g                            pearled barley
15 oz                           400 g                          water
.35 oz (2 tsp)               10 g                             fat
to taste                        to taste                         salt
yield: 15 oz/400 g

Procedure
Bring salt and water to a boil.
Pour the barley into the boiling salted water and simmer until tender
Add the fat and mix in well, cover the pot, and let rest for a few minutes.
Required cooking time is up to 2 hours.

Oatmeal Kasha, Sticky

US                               Metric                          Ingredients
3 oz                             80 g                              oat groats
10.5 oz                        300 g                            water
.35 oz (2 tsp)               10 g                              fat
to taste                        to taste                          salt
yield: 15 oz/400 g

Procedure
Bring salt and water to a boil.
Pour the oats into the boiling salted water and simmer until tender
Add the fat and mix in well, cover the pot, and let rest for a few minutes.
Required cooking time is up to 2 hours.

12 comments:

  1. And how did you find it? I.e., is it good?

    Does it compare to anything we might be familiar with here in the US?

    ReplyDelete
  2. I have had kasha before, but I was surprised at how well the Soviet Army version turned out. I thought it was quite good. I can't think of anything that equates to buckwheat kasha. The "sticky" kashas are comparable to risotto in texture, although the taste is somewhat different. If you've never had it before, kasha is worth a try. It's quite nutritious and is a great alternative to the usual pasta or potato side dish.
    Thanks for commenting,
    Peter

    ReplyDelete
  3. Hello from Russia.
    I want to make a correction.
    In our army only barley kasha call shrapnel(other name barley kasha - perlovka)

    that how look well cooket perlovka with chicken

    http://img-fotki.yandex.ru/get/6430/195215158.12/0_aabdd_3ea5de01_XL.jpg

    ReplyDelete
  4. I am just commenting to say I'm a follower and big admirer of this site. I'm a PhD student at the University of Oregon, specializing in military history, and I have found that trying out some of the recipes here have helped give a visceral reality to what I study. I look forward to more recipes!

    ReplyDelete
  5. No new entries since May? Hopefully just a summer vacation!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It 's mostly due to adjusting to a new job for the last few months. I admit that it might not really be that great of an excuse, but look for some new posts within the next couple of days. I've been working on several posts, and only now have found the time to test the recipes. I also need to do some more photos and finish up.
      Thanks,
      Peter

      Delete
  6. A subject that might be of interest to anyone looking into kasha:

    http://www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt/2013/09/17/223053778/kitchen-time-machine-a-culinary-romp-through-soviet-history?ft=1&f=139941248

    ReplyDelete
  7. I have cooked Kasha for my unit during WWII Re-enactment. I have added Tushenka (potted meat) to it

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Yes Yuri, enjoyed the beef tushenka in the cold prepped kasha.

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  8. Ha, good old kasha :) I've been eating that stuff for 32 years now, mostly buckwheat version and never get tired from it :) Kasha with tushenka and fried onions is great! Buckwheat is actually pretty healthy food too. Too bad we only have it in certain Eastern European stores when it comes to my area.

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  9. Hi, Peter
    I'm new to your blog. I'm interested in anything related to military rations.
    do you have anything related to the Russian Tushonka?
    Keep up the good work

    Daniel

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hi William,
      Use the search bar in the blog and do a search on tushonka. I have a post with recipe for tushonka.
      Thanks for stopping in,
      Peter

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